How to Surf...
Surfing has to be one of the most fun water sports out there. Surfboards range in size based on a person’s height and weight. Surfing does not have to involve those 10 to 20 foot waves, but can be a recreational activity practically anywhere on the coast. All it requires is a surfboard, a leash, and the ocean.
If you want to ride a wave, you first need to know how to stand on the board once you are up and riding. This can be done by placing your band in the sand and finding a good strong athletic stance on the board. Your feet should be just outside of shoulder width and your knees should be slightly bent. Balance is the most important of riding any wave. Once you have mastered the riding stance, it is time to get into the water. Most importantly, whoever is attempting to surf needs to make sure they attach the leash around their ankle. While in water, you need to get the board positioned towards the beach and the rider needs to be lying flat on their stomach ready to start paddling. A rider can practice timing the wave by just paddling and riding the wave on their stomach, so they can master estimating the speed of the wave. Once the rider is ready, they can try to stand up as they ride the wave this time. This is the hardest part about surfing. As the wave begins to crash and the surfboard is moving at a steady pace by itself, the rider should use their hands to push up and kick their feet underneath them into that athletic stance that was mastered on the beach. This may take several attempts, but it is a skill that can be obtained with lots of practice. Once you are able to stand up and ride the wave there are endless possibilities of what you can do! Riding a wave is one of the most exhilarating feelings and I hope this post can help shred that next wave!
- Kekoa Jane